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Peak Mountain 3

Star Driven

FA Dave McRae and Mai Hyman 8/18/2019
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Star Driven is an all-bolted multi pitch to the summit of the Monument. It's best climbed as a three pitch route linking pitches 1&2 as well as 4&5.  rappel with a single 60m rope.  

P1.  5.10c***  20 feet of crappy slab climbing leads to a strenuous pull into a  corner of impeccable rock.  Around 75 feet, cut left at an intersection toward two ancient Star Dryvin bolts.  80 ft.

P2. 5.10a***  Traverse left to a fun vertical flake system.  Use runners. 70 feet.

p3. 5.11a****  Traverse left on steep rock with good holds to a crux exposed rib.  90 feet

P4.  5.10a**  Crank up a steep flake, then cruise to a comfy ledge with an awkwardly placed anchor.  40 ft.  Best to link this with P5.

P5. 5.10a**  Easy face climbing leads to a couple bulges and solid rock to the summit.  90 ft.

Descent: Rappel with a single 60m rope.  From the anchor atop the second pitch, rap straight down to a hanging descent anchor 35 feet left of the first pitch anchor.  Make one more rap (5 total), then traverse scramble directly toward the main gully on a narrow ledge.

Location

Scramble and hike up the main gully between the Monument and Anglin's Buttress for five minutes.  Star Driven starts on the left side of the big ledge below the obvious 50 foot flake of Trailblazer.  

Protection

All bolted. Bring runners and up to 18 total quickdraws to link pitches. single 60m rope


Routes in Southeast Face