- Edit (TBD)
Description
The Larson-Farr is a classic, beautiful Creek-style #1 C4 splitter, however, the splitter continues past the chains through two roofs. I went and pushed the line to its logical endpoint above the 2nd roof. Its sweet to lead the whole thing (Larson-Farr and Farson-Larr) as one big pitch.
After climbing the Larson-Farr, start with a laser-cut section of .75 C4s right off the chains, then climb up under the first roof on some face holds and get a full no-hands rest. Pull the thin hands roof (with good feet on the wall), and continue up a vertical handcrack to the 2nd roof. The 2nd roof starts #1 C4s and widens to a #4 C4 before grabbing jugs. The anchors are immediately past the second roof. Two big bomber bolts with chain and coldshuts.
The best way to do the line is to just climb both pitches as one single long pitch. The rack isn't that huge, and ropedrag can be managed pretty well. Two ropes will get you down easy and allow for TRing.
Apparently you can TR with a single 80m, though I have not done it myself.
A single 70 will not reach to the ground, but you could get yourself back to the mid-way anchor, clip in, pull, re-thread, and continue lowering from there. Makes it much harder to TR however. If your second wants to TR, then consider bringing them up to the midway anchor - its a comfy ledge to belay on.
The line is a bit sandy, but all loose rock has been trundled, and it will clean up nicely with some ascents.
Location
Continuation of the Larson-Farr.
Protection
For the Farson-Larr (the extension), bring:
1x .3 C3
2x .4 C4
2x .5 C4
3x .75 C4
1x #1 C4
2x #2 C4
1x #3 C4
1x #4 C4
Plus lots of shoulder length slings to reduce rope drag - its a pretty long pitch when you link.
See the Larson-Farr page for what to bring for the lower half.
Routes in The Confluence
- 12The Farsen-Larr (extension to The Larsen-Farr)5.11bTrad