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Peak Mountain 3

Never Have I Ever Used A Stepstool

FA Nate Redon, James Maltman
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route is loaded with fun mantles that make the movement interesting for the grade. The line wanders but the drag isn't too bad as long as you don't keep gear in the crack by the 3rd bolt or use really short draws. A 5.10 climber can probably do this with just draws, all hard moves are bolt protected.

Begin up a mellow corner and establish yourself on the first of many ledges. Pull a tricky mantle to access the next ledge and traverse to the right. Bring your stepstool or find a way of reaching a protruding horn and pull another fun move onto the next tier. A bolt was added because the gear is behind a hollow flake.

Step left and head up a techy dihedral with good edges up high (5.9). Make a final mantle and head up to the 'Geek Corners' anchor on easier terrain.

Location

Starts in the low angle corner with a bolt 30 feet to the right of Geek Corners / Even Steven. The route wanders its way up the 4 ledges.

Protection

5 bolts to anchor with rings. Bring a small nut for the start and maybe an extended #3 to protect your follower getting onto the 3rd ledge. Gear is also available after the last bolt on easy climbing. Consider removing the 3rd draw after getting onto the ledge if you're worried about the drag, with long quickdraws it's not too bad.