Midge Squadron

This route lies about 6-10 feet left of "

Bad Girls Get Spanked"

and on the same face. In the attached picture, "

Bad Girls

" is the climb drawn in.

Hike up the trail from Pratice Rock as for "

Bad Girls

" or "

Mosquito Burrito

." Climb past the first two bolts on the rounded face and slab, which are shared with "

Bad Girls

," then pull onto the left-most line of bolts on the face on the left and run to the top.

Unlike

Bad Girls

, this climb is reasonably secure and is not seeping water out of crux holds. The exception here being the intial leftward moves to separate yourself from the shared protion of the climbs, where blowing a clip would be a very bad idea.

The climb is relatively long and a 60M is a good idea to lower off of the route. I did not try this with a 50M, but it looked like it would be close.

See Mark Rolofson's Boulder Canyon Sport and Adventure Climber's Guide Volume II - The Upper Canyon for details.

10 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.