- Edit (TBD)
Description
A historic yet obscure romp up some old-school spice! Have you got the grit for this grit?
"Yeah buddy--light weight baby!"
Pitch 1: Traditionally done by banging out the 'satch-spicey first pitch of 'Beckey Route' (See Mark's great page). From the top of that, make a hard right, traversing across to the 'Crown of Creation' belay.
Pitch 2: The part that makes Lowe-Conrod Lowe Conrod! Finish the traverse to the base of the corner and jam your way up with a fun variety of hands, lieback, face moves--pull through the roof--then chimney and squeeze your way up to an awkwardish belay at the end of a long fin feature.
Pitch 3: This detracts from the route's overall potential for a 2-star rating. Climb trademark "deteriorating quality rock" (kitty litter, harder pro, rotten rock) via more chimneying and blue-collar grunting until you can scramble to the stunning top off. Its all been worth it; look down into Little Cottonwood and see if you can name all the formations. (Fist bump)
Descent: With one 70 meter, rappel back down the route in 4 raps. Public Service Announcement: a good Samaritan would be the toast of the town (to all those lining up to do this route on a weekly basis) by bringing fresh webbing/cord and beefing up some of the tired rap-stations.
Location
See that HUGE and obvious corner/roof/chimney system smack-dab in the middle of the buttress? Get after it--it ain't gonna climb itself.
Protection
Double rack to #4, the big boys being useful on the chimneying, squeezy sections.