- Edit (TBD)
Description
3 short, fun, crack pitches to nowhere
P1: finger/hand crack to intersection with the chasm P2: continue up the chasm/corner; #4 camalot assortment handy; parts of the chasm are wider than a #6 camalot, so expect to be on your own for a bit; belay at left/right option P3: up left in the black corner; up wide crack & face; belay on ledge system underneath the crazy overhanging corner
Downclimb to trees and rappel back to the base of the climb.
Someone has cut the oak trees on the starting belay ledge before the fire. We found a sad rap anchor there too. Not sure whether these traces are from folks rappeling the major gully system uphill of the climb or from folks climbing below the crazy corner.
The crazy corner looks to be a piece of work. The rock is not special and much of the gear will be the tiniest of cams; see photo.
Location
At the mouth of stick gully, on the (climber's) left, to the right of Promote the Segregation, head up a major gully. At its top, head up a short gully on the right. Gain the left end of the oak thicket infested ledge above the gully; some climbing involved. A spacious belay ledge at the base of a finger/hand crack.
Protection
normal rack; extra #4 camalot(s), #5 camalot might get used
Routes in Stick Gully
- 10unknown5.8Trad