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Peak Mountain 3

Via Ferrata

FA Pitch 2 Mark Sprague 11/99, pitch 3 (the Thing) Ted Hammond, Paul Cousar, Scott Stevenson, 1988
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A great and exposed route that climbs all the way up Main Cliff.

Pitch one: 5.10a. Climb Underdog to its anchors, then traverse left past another set of anchors and a bolt to the anchors of Thin Man (5.13a). Belay from chains. 12 bolts.

Pitch 2: 5.11c. Climb up and right to a crack that heads right past more bolts. The feet on this part are weird but the hands are good crimps turning to jugs. Throw a heel and pull over in to an awkward stance. Pull up through one more tough roof and on to a good ledge with an anchor. Be careful of a potentially loose jug on the arete just before the ledge. There is a hairline crack behind it. If continuing up, clip a directional and move across the ledge to the anchor on your left and belay there. 5 bolts.

Pitch 3: From the left end of the ledge, climb up through the roof and an exposed notch and on to more moderate climbing to the top. 7 bolts to an anchor near the top of the cliff then lower back to the ledge.

Be careful of loose rock because you will likely be climbing above folks on the ground.

A 60m will get you to the ground from the top of pitch 2 as long as you use the right anchor, but knot your ends.

Location

Start up Underdog.

Protection

All bolts and bolted anchors. 12 draws and some slings and lockers for anchors should do you fine.