- Edit (TBD)
Description
Long reaches between thin and crimpy edges to a difficult dyno at the top characterize this route which is somewhat contrived as you avoid an obvious flake (the largest hold on the face) at the top.
This route was an abandoned project that finally got some attention, and after a little work it's now one of the more difficult routes at The Coven. Interestingly enough the FA party originally rated this route 5.13b, but it was soon repeated and promptly downgraded to 5.12a! The guidebook split the difference by rating it 5.12c, but what it really needs is more ascents to solidify the rating.
Location
Right of
Gorilla Dance
and seperated from it by
Dancing on A Broomstick
(5.7 chimney) is this short, smooth face with a single difficult route.
Protection
4 bolts, bolted anchor