No Turning Back

Off the ledge and the second route to the right of the

Blonde Ambition

, No Turning Back (NTB) is marked by a series of small right-facing corners that are mastered by liebacks and tricky feet that start right off the deck. The corners look deceptively easy, but don't be fooled. This route starts to slap immediately and remains relentlessly continuous right to the end. The only rest crops up after 40-45 feet of powerful pulling, and it's a lousy rest at that. Above the small horizontal band at 50 feet, the climbing eases back to moderate 5.11 on small, sometimes incut edges.

Tod Anderson copped the FFA after a week of training with 16 oz curls and some serious tanning time.

QDs only. At close to 90 feet, this route need about 15 QDs and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.