- Edit (TBD)
Description
Begin with a deceptively difficult and shouldery boulder that deposits you on a resting ledge.
When ready, blast up a few bolts on the overhanging headwall as the holds and feet get progressively worse. The second crux involves a sequence-crucial series of good but agonizingly painful pockets, ending with a final long move to a ledge. The climb ends at the last bolt, due to the clipping hold for the true anchors breaking.
A true exercise in pain tolerance for the more zen among us. Perfect for those who enjoy a casual stroll on some hot coals or a nap on a bed of nails.
Location
Just right of Mono Loco (5.14a). Boulder problem start marked by a flake crimp at around head height.
Protection
Bolts to two-bolt anchor (but lower from last bolt or call up the stick). A roll of tape for each finger.
Routes in 3) The Brain
- 12Climax Control5.13bSport