Storm Bird

Envisioned by Phil Gruber, this route takes you on an enjoyable journey up the middle of the steep north face. It links three existing routes and climbs a good bit of fun new terrain, without the addition of fixed protection. The climbing is steep and exposed, but the crux moves are reasonably protected. All pitches have fixed anchors, which were updated as a part of establishing this route (in accordance with OSMP permit requirements).

P1: From the ramp on the right, climb to the third bolt on

Sea of Joy

and clip a long sling. Head right on moderate black rock past micro-wires and then up flakes to a reachy move up and right. Pass a small dihedral and get established below the overlap. Head up and right over the roof and continue to join

Archaeopteryx

for the final moves to the anchor on the ledge below the overhanging dihedral. This pitch is fun and is equipped to make it easy to climb on its own, 5.10+ PG-13.

P2: Move up and right off of the anchors; then make an awkward move to get established in the undercling. Climb the wild crack left through the roof on tenuous feet.  Step left to the anchor at an exposed stance on a block. This is the second pitch of

Archaeopteryx

(and is stiff for the grade), 5.11b PG-13.

P3: Step right from the anchor, and follow the steep, blocky dike up and right on positive holds. Move right around the bulge, past an obvious #3 placement, and clip the bolt long. Make a couple of moves on devious holds, and follow the last few bolts on

The Perfect Storm

to the anchor, 5.12- PG-13.

Descent: From the top of pitch three straight to the ground is 60 meters- double rope rappel.  It is also possible to top out and descend via the standard rappel from the summit of Seal Rock.  (Hint: you can descend

Sea of Joy

with one 70m and

The Hinge

/

The Stoop

with one 60m rope.)

It is in the center of the north face of Seal Rock.

A single rack of cams to #3 C4 (doubles #1 C4) with extra stoppers and micro-wires and a dozen quickdraws and slings.