- Edit (TBD)
Description
Scramble up a dirty gully being careful not to flatten your belayer with choss. After 30', step left onto the face and clip a couple of bolts. A short shuffle up and left brings you to a 6" ledge and a tough mantle. If you can clip the 3rd bolt before committing, do it. If you can't, don't blow it or your head might end up close to the ground.
Once established on the shelf, slightly runout climbing on good edges will bring you to the anchor of Golden.
Location
Look for the bolts on a nice face about 40' to the right of The Thin Thing (first route described in the book) and just to the right of the Golden arete. Shoot up the gully and get on the face.
Protection
3 bolts, optional larger stuff of the scramble (long runners needed). Optional small cams would protect a crack on the upper face although climbing the arete is easy and makes more sense.
Pre-hanging the 3rd draw after doing Golden helps.
Metolius rap rings on top.