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MapDescription
Start at a thin crack/seam and climb up to a bolt then make crux moves as you work left with good flakes for the hands and marginal feet to gain an obvious curving crack. Continue up the fun crack to it's end, pass a horizontal and then stand up on flakes to clip another bolt which protects moves over the shoulder and onto the slab above which is followed to anchors atop the tower.
The protection is actually good on this route but until the 1/4" bolts with Leeper hangers are replaced this should be considered a serious lead.
Location
West face of the Black Tower.
Protection
2 bolts (1/4"), gear to 1.5", bolted anchors (shared with
Black Tower Crack
)
Routes in (d) Castle Rock - Black Tower Buttress
- 4Lower Black Tower5.10aTrad