North Face Direct

The first pitch is the crux and provides the only real technical climbing on the route. Climb up fun, hard-to-protect choss for a good rope length, weaving left and right to avoid some steeper, chossier sections. I left a knifeblade in a horizontal crack before one of the roofs. After topping out, walk right a few feet and belay there. A small angle piton was left fixed.

None of the pitches after the first require technical gear... and the first pitch could even be avoided by going up the snow gully to the left or scrambling up easier rock to the right.

From the belay, unrope (stashing your rock gear would probably be a good idea, too) and walk up (west) the ridge until you see the low-angled 4th class rock as marked in the topo pic. Carefully cross the snowy gully and climb several hundred vertical feet of rock that gets easier the closer you get to the top. The actual summit of the peak is a 5 minute scramble to the south.

Start to the left of the obvious pine tree, where the face looks the longest.

A few medium-sized nuts, small (C3 sizes) to hand-sized cams. Lots of slings. If you're avoiding the first pitch, just take good boots and an ice axe if there's still snow in the gullies.