Frontal Lobotomy

A really great, steep crack climb, that seems more exposed and difficult that it really is (aren't we always looking for this kind of route?) Excellent protection. One of the first climbs done in the Comic Book area. The young Matt Cox, Dave Evans and Spencer Lennard were very active in climbers in the 70s, establishing many fine routes.

Pitch 1: The first pitch (5.9) is often neglected, but is actually quite good. Layback a wide crack (crux), which quickly becomes fingers; traverse left to a belay on a small ledge (you can scramble up from the left to this spot).

Pitch 2: Clip a bolt, and make a long reach into a finger crack-bomber layback (5.10a/b). Higher up, above a small roof, the crack widens and eases. Belay on a large ledge.

You can also lead this route in a single pitch, but unless you are careful (use runners), rope drag could be a problem.

Make a 100+ foot rap from a 2 bolt anchor. Alternatively, downclimb to the left (Class 4/5).

A good variety of small nuts/cams to possibly 4 inches (to protect crux of 1st pitch).