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Brand New New Balances (FA Open)
Description
Brand New New Balances sit starts from the same huge shelf jug as Get Off My Lawn.Work up on the crimp rails to a stance and find your line west. Don’t use the top of the boulder at all - just the face holds for hands and feet!Work westerly to a protruding jug and solve the crux to get in a controlled stance on a low incut jug on the face. You should be able to step down onto the boulder beneath you to exit but top out if you want to.Falls should be ok except for the middle section so bring 1-2 pads and a spotter.
Location
Park at Juji Fruit pullout (the one that looks like a granite ramp to the west) and walk downhill. Go north and pass Monogamy Rock, continue north along the trail and pass Boomer Selfie traverse and other problems, and continue further north to the Pig Platter area. Up against the slope below the road is New Balance boulder with its climbable face facing north. Starting jug is obvious and close to the road.You can also approach this by walking downhill along the guardrail to the north and look down. When the Grady areas runout into woods there will be a big rock next to the slope with a square top. This is New Balance.Pig Platter is just downhill. Rattlesnake Jake is WSW. All of these boulders are very close to the road and each other.
Protection
1-2 pads and spotter
Routes in New Balance boulder
- 2Brand New New Balances (FA Open)V2-3Bouldering