The Last of the Gohegans

This is the first route as you enter Indian Country from the east. Before you start the climb make sure your belayer is anchored to the wall (TCU's). Begin off of a boulder and traverse right on edges to a bolt. The first crux section (11+) entails awkward stemming across a scooped out area (good edges for feet - microedges for hands) and then searching for a hand hold in a flared tips crack located around a bulge. Higher up, the flared tips crack widens into a beautiful finger crack that ends at a roof where the second crux (11b) is encountered (bolt protected). Pull the roof and enter an easy / fun hand crack (5.7) to the top. Four out of five stars!

Small TCU's (#0 - #3), small stoppers, two bolts, and a few medium sized cams provide adequate pro. A large oak tree on a ledge at the top can be slung for an anchor. Fist sized cams are also useful.