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Peak Mountain 3

Southeast Chimney Route

FA: Bill Forrest, George Hurley, with Rod Chuck on the lower leads(1969), FFA: Mike Pennings, Feb 1999
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Pitch 1:Climb mixed free and aid up and left to a bolt(Crux). Continue to aid up and left to an anchor, on the right edge of the chimney.(5.8, A2+)

Pitch 2:Climb a old bolt ladder to an anchor in the chimney.(C1)

Pitch 3:Continue up bolts to 5.8 free on mud, below a roof. Aid the right side on a "expanding flake"(I did not notice it expand) to an anchor.(5.8, A2)

Pitch 4:Climb mixed free and aid up chimney and over bulge to good ledge out of chimney. There were sections of runouts on this pitch.(5.8, C1)

Pitch 5:Easy free climbing up crack leads to the summit.

Descent:Rap route

Note:I combined pitches 3 and 4, the rope drag was bad. I would suggest combining pitches 2 and 3.

Also this route is supposed to go free at 5.11.

Location

The route starts on the up hill side of the Doric Column, on a mound of dirt. The first bolt is obvious up and left of the start.

Protection

Standard desert rack, plus some angles, and a few wide cams for pitch 4.


Routes in Doric Column


  1. 2
    Southeast Chimney Route
    5.8
    Trad · Aid