Northeast Face Direct

Ascend the Formidable Glacier to the low point of the NE face. Find a good spot to cross the moat and climb approx. 80m up low angle dirty 4th (no pro). Traverse left to an obvious couloir. Climb the couloir (50-60 degree snow or AI2, rock pro to right) and pull over the chockstone at the top. Make another short traverse left then ascend directly up the face on low-5th with occasional steeper steps no harder than 5.6. Keep an eye out for the "duo-lith", an obvious boulder split by an off-width. Climb past it, gaining the N. Ridge a couple of rope lengths beyond. The easy, scenic simul-climb along the ridge crest is over too quickly but the views from the summit are more than adequate compensation.

light alpine rack to 3"