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Peak Mountain 3

North Face Pohono Pinnacle

FA George Sessions and Felix Knauth, August 1958
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A fun adventure up a to a neat summit. More of a mountaineering type route, in a bushy way. Excellent views of the cathedrals and el cap.

Fight your way up a bushy 3rd class ledge up 4-5th class ramps and ledges into a chimney of sorts exiting onto a ledge. From the ledge climb the left chimney starting on the outside before passing an old old bolt to slab traverse into the chimney, climbing to its top. You are now at the notch. Down scramble and set belay before a short off width section. Climb up and left into the bowl and follow that into the notch towards the summit. Climb a  cool chimney to it top. Exposed 3rd to the summit.

Location

Far west side of sentinel creek just before the toe of the pinnacle. A few hundred feet right of an old thin aid line. A third class ramp leads up and left from here.

descent: walk down west through bushes staying left to a 4th class down climb a chimney. More bushes and ledges end at a slab with a tree to rappel off. Two raps from trees bring you down to the top house size bolder and a short 4th scramble down to a slug block. Rappel to the ledge and scramble left to the south to a set of rappel bolts and rings. Rap to a tree then to the ground. We had a 70m and would recommend it.

Protection

.3-#3, many slings. Some might want wider gear.