Astroglide

This route goes up the obvious clean right facing dihedral near the left end of Frontera wall. The crack is clean and continuous, protection is plentiful, and the climbing is enjoyable (but of course that is a matter of opinion)! The crux is not the series or roofs on P3, but rather the extremely slick rock on P2. From the P1 anchor, the route can be completed in two more pitches, but rope drag past the roof sections may compel one to stop and belay shortly after the 3rd roof. About 50 feet above the 3rd roof there is a 2-bolt anchor / rappel station. Pitch 1 (40 meters; 5.7)  P1 starts uphill to the right of the waterfall. It angles up and left on a ramp behind some vegetation. There is a steep and height dependent move to get hands onto a ledge. Then traverse left and the ledge opens into a broad, comfortable platform. Two-bolt anchor on ledge.Pitch 1 Direct Start (55 meters, 5.10b/c) The direct start goes straight up the waterfall on slick, but pocketed rock. A few hard bouldery moves get you through the roof. After the roof, the anchor is still quite a bit higher and slightly to the right. Rather than heading up the unprotectable slab toward the anchors, one may want to take the obvious crack system straight up. Eventually a short but exposed traverse to the right will be needed to get to the slick, white granite ledge with the anchors. Pitch 2 (50+ meters; 5.9)  The slippery pitch! Climb up the dihedral as far as you want, passing the middle rappel station. Build anchor and belay wherever looks the least uncomfortable.Pitch 3 (55 meters; 5.8)  Go up and under roofs, enjoying the spiny vegetation along the way. Long slings are important to reduce rope drag. Build anchor after 3rd roof, or if rope drag isn't too bad, keep going up to some Agave parryi and then to the anchor on right.

Descent: Three double 60m rappels to the ground. Rappel stations are obvious. Definitely put knots in the end of the ropes for the first rappel.A few notes:If you hike to the summit above, or if you’re using this rappel station after summiting a different route, use caution when descending to the rappel anchor. The rock is slick, and a slip would have serious consequences. There are opportunities to plug cams in to assist with the down climb.There are three 2-bolt rappel stations, all equipped with chains.There is some history of climbing here. Lily Conrad and I climbed the first two pitches in February 2021 and we found an old hex and nut on which someone bailed below the halfway point. There is no evidence of climbing above that point, but as a good scientist I know that the absence of evidence is not evidence of absence!Erik Lehnhoff, Joy Doucette and Bob Almond climbed the direct start on April 16, 2021.

Obvious right facing dihedral above the waterfall and left of the black streak. 

Standard Organ rack. Doubles of 0.5 - 4 can certainly be useful, depending upon how much you want to run it out. There are multiple opportunities for a #5 placement, but I wouldn't say it is necessary. Hexes are useful.