Direct North Rib

The North Rib is basically a harder, more sustained, and more exposed version of the

North Buttress

, which it parallels across the Central Couloir. The setting is spectacular, the climbing is good, and the rock is decent enough for what it is (San Juan volcanic garbage).

About 500' of steep-ish climbing brings you to the crest of the rib, which then carries you to the summit ridge. Our pitch breakdown went as follows:

P1. Start in a wide crack and follow it to a ledge below the crux cracks, 5.6, 50'.

P2. Climb the hand and fist crack through a couple bulges, and then run your rope to its end on easier ground, dirty 5.10, 70 meters.

P3. Climb straight up the face and then through several steep and clean corners until you have gained the crest of the ridge, 5.7, 60 meters.

From here, simul or solo along the ridgeline until it intersects with the summit ridge around 13,800'. It is mostly 3rd and 4th Class with sections up to 5.4 or so. This is beautiful and exposed scrambling here.

Don't underestimate the amount of time this climb takes. Bailing high on route would be difficult and probably dangerous.

An easier variation exists, which cuts up to the ridgeline from partway up the Northeast Couloir. It is supposedly 5.8.

The North Rib is the ridge just east of the North Buttress. Start at the toe of the rib; the crux cracks will be obvious above you. Approach through Blaine Basin from the Blue Lakes/East Dallas Creek TH.

A double rack up to #2 or #3, and one #4. An ice axe is useful in the early season.