Chouinard-Frost Chimney

An fun, steep, interesting route on the business side of Disappointment Peak. To climbers or skiers traveling below in Glacier Gulch, Disappointment's north face commands attention, even with the immense presence of the Grand and Owen nearby. All in all, it's more reasonable than expected given that it's a 5.9 in the Tetons from the 60's.  The wall is steep but it generally follows moderate features, protection is good, belays are mostly comfy, and the position is great.  Route finding is tricky in a few spots.  While maybe technically easier than nearby Open Book, it's more involved overall.  Not the cleanest, but the munge factor in places is well within reason for the area.  I could see it being wet in places if too early in the summer.

The route proper starts in Glacier Gulch and goes to the top. A shorter version involves traversing onto the face via the large ledge from Amphitheater Lake, which was our path. The Ortenburger/Jackson guide warns that the bottom section is "unpleasant". While it didn't look nearly as quality as the upper half, an ascent of the entire face seems worthy, and I hope to go back for the proper go. For now, the route will be described missing the first 3 pitches (my P1 is really P4).

Approach (for the short version): Amphitheater Lake to the first couple hundred feet, 4th/low 5th of the East Ridge route. Walk out onto the awesome, vegetated ledge that grants you passage onto the gnarnia of the north face. Finding the start is not obvious.  Continue until the ledge peters out, then go to a small lone tree and a short 5.9 jug/crack bulge above. The chimney system starts above that.  It's tricky because you can't see the route at all above you.  The anchor situation isn't great for this belay, but you start plugging good stuff immediately.

P1: A long pitch, primarily fun chimney with an old-school squeeze down low. 50-60m, multiple belay options, 5.9.  Features in the squeeze & a chockstone for pro keep it mostly casual.  A helmet and/or backpack are not your friends here.

P2: Chimney eases, curves right, good belay where chimney peters out, 5.6.

P3: Quest up and right following the weakness that is the extension of the chimney. Following the path of least resistance, traverse hard right in ledgy cracks and face bits towards a prominent left-facing corner that you initially cannot see. Belay at the base of the corner. Airy, 5.8.

**Retreating now would be significant, as your fall-line no longer includes the midway ledge. Glacier Gulch is a long ways down there. The P4 roof may provide shelter from a storm if needed.

P4: Climb the classic, if not a bit vegetated, corner to the roof and storybook belay above. 5.9, some fixed gear.

P5: Multiple options, head upwards on somewhat rambling terrain. Tons of belays. Not a particularly long pitch. 5.7 or so.

P6: Multiple options to the top. We did what we believe is the Kimbrough-Rickert variation, the harder of the options. From the belay, look up and left for some appealing, steep, left-leaning cracks in light colored rock. Quest over there and pull a small finishing roof. 5.9+. More straight up looked easier & rambling.

A very short scramble gets you to the broad west slope of Disappointment. Hike up to the summit for sweet views, or begin the descent down or on ledges to the right of the prominent spoon couloir.  Sharp pointy bits may me necessary depending on season.

North face of Disappointment Peak. Approach via Glacier Gulch for the full route, or Amphitheater Lake/East Ridge for the midway ledge short version.

Whatever your standard Teton 5.9 rack is, to 2" or 3". Our BD #3 got used but was not mandatory. Some fixed gear.