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Peak Mountain 3

Wiessner's Rib

FA Wiessner, 1930s
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Fritz Wiessner had a good eye for the classic climbs. The start of this climb can be found by heading straight up from the intersection of the main (Tower) trail and the white trail. After hiking up to the base of the rib, walk right and up to a ledge at the base of the route; step left to belay away from the poison ivy. On the left side of the ledge is a dihedral system. Follow this up about 25 feet to a ledge. Step right across a small slab and climb easily to an obvious dihedral. Layback past a blank spot (crux) and either climb a short slanting crack on the left or climb more easily on the right to a big ledge. 65', 5.6. This ledge can also be reached easily from the left.Directly above an ancient bolt is easy to see. This is "Bolted", an alternate finish at 5.8+. The second pitch works right (ignoring the bolt) and then follows a left facing dihedral. At an old pin (now useless), a long step left avoids a hard spot. Easier climbing leads to the top. 40'. 5.5 (harder if shorter).To top rope or top belay, see photos and GPS N41°25.583, W072°53.918One of the best 5.6 routes in Connecticut.

Protection

This route is well protected with wires and a few larger cams.