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Narrow Arrow Direct
Description
Right of Narrow Arrow Overhang, this pitch traditionally starts with a beatdown in a difficult wide stemming corner (.11b). An easier and less cruxy method is to use the start of Shirley. Either way, climb up through varied terrain and mantle up onto a small stance at the base of a corner. Layback a flake up a slab and make an airy step-across move left under the roof. Pull the roof past a pin and establish on the face above. The left facing lieback feature thins out just before a core-intensive reach to a large flake. Follow this past a bolt to an awkward stance on a small ledge. Clip the final bolt and begin the crux, a five or six move boulder problem (V5ish).
Location
This is the rightmost of the two "Narrow Arrow" routes. The beginning climbs dirty ledges below a bolt. A 60m rope will lower to the ground from the anchor. It is possible to continue for three more pitches (up to .10c), including an airy offwidth (gear to 6"). All pitches are excellent and can also provide access to new pitches above and right of the Narrow Arrow feature.
Protection
Three bolts and two pins (the first questionable). A selection of gear is needed, very thin to green Camalot size. Include nuts.
Routes in (D) Narrow Arrow and further right
- 5Narrow Arrow Direct5.12cTrad