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Peak Mountain 3

Heinous Anus

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Description

Start by climbing fun, slabby rock up the prow of the arete (5.11-) to a good rest. Next glance right making use of a crack and face holds on a bulge to gain a good rest on a slab at about the midway point of the route. Next head up and around the corner to the right, stemming and underclinging (crux) to the top of the pillar and the anchor.

Location

Locate the major gully that begins at the far left end of the Wipeyur Buttress (this gully runs behind routes such as

Mr. Hanky

,

Tailwinds

, etc.). Heinous Anus is the first route at the beginning of the gully.

Protection

8 bolts plus anchors.