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Peak Mountain 3

Alberta

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Description

I thought "Alberta" was a pretty good sport climb, for Johns Wall at least. Some older guides list this as "The Face" at 5.9+, but a 5.9 climber will get his or her butt kicked.

It's a boulder problem to the first bolt (the landing is sandy still some timid leaders might consider stick-clipping). Just before you reach the 2nd bolt is a really weird and unnerving mantle move. After this, head up to the right on small edges & pockets, with the difficulty easing toward the top.

Location

Sport climb, center stage of Johns Wall. Just left of the left-facing corner (Route 66).

Protection

6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor w/ chains.