- Edit (TBD)
Description
Lots of climbing for the length, with good pro once you get into the business.Head up into the dirty slot, noting that the pale rock at the base of this wall is quite soft, and what look like holds/feet may crumble...but you came here to crack climb, right? A deep #5 placement protects the move into the slot, but fear not, great offwidth technique is not necessary.Follow easy moves up the slot. From there, take a slight left around the roof (see photo). Protect the roof well, and commit to the moves. Follow the crack on the left side of the hanging buttress to the anchors.Taking a hard left under the hanging block would get you into I Scream.Please toprope on your own draws.For a cultural reference on the route names, see the link. This reflects how all of us crack addicts felt during the quarantine that incubated these routes. youtube.com/watch?v=7rK3s_B…
Location
The middle of the three lines that diverge from the dirty slot. These are the first routes you'll encounter at the crag. See photos.
Protection
Singles from 0.4 to 2, plus a #5 and a few slings. If you want to sew it up, bring doubles in 0.75 to 2. 2 bolt anchor.