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Peak Mountain 3

Freak on a Leash

FA Steve Sangdahl & Chip Ruckgaber
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route starts up

Hound Dog

for 40 feet and then cuts sharp-left and then up to a difficult headwall. Extend several of the middle bolts with shoulder-length slings to cut down on rope drag - you'll need to shave off every possible ounce to levitate those feet. The crux is devious (and a bit height-dependent) - many climbers try it a few times and give up because it seems improbable. The route is a hidden gem, though - it is off the normal circuit, on excellent rock, has fun moves, and is a very aesthetic line. It's a stiff "Bell Buttress" 5.12d - quite a bit harder than many 5.13a routes in Boulder Canyon.

Location

This is on the left side of Bell Buttress, at a mini-alcove with a tree flush against the wall.

Protection

13 bolts (+ 2 at the anchors = 15 total).