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Peak Mountain 3

Enchanted Stairway

FA Mike Pope, Hank Levine & Russ Yeoman, December 1975 Direct: Brad Johnston, Bud Bruce, Randy Vogel & Mike Orr, January 1977
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This was my second time leading a face climb at Joshua Tree, and it was exciting. The first bolt is about 40 feet off the ground. Just before you get to the first bolt you need to make a couple of 5.8 moves, including a high step/mantle on a small chicken head. Before you make the moves to the first bolt, make sure to look down. 40 unprotected feet below your feet you will see a broken Manzanita bush and a cactus. I wonder how the branches got broken?After the bolt comes a few nice 5.9 moves. Then the climb gets easier on big patina flakes. 50 feet past the first bolt you will come to a second bolt. Then about 60 more feet to the top.Definitely worth doing if you are a competentent 5.9 leader. It is also perfect for a cold day because it faces the sun.

Protection

There are two bolts on the route. It is also possible to sling a couple of flakes/horns after the second bolt.