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Peak Mountain 3

Spirited Away

FA Randy Vogel, Vern Stiefel, 92
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route stands among the best in the entire Park. Bold, but adequately protected, the signature second pitch offers continuous climbing in a stellar position.  The remote and beautiful locale and the surprisingly large north face make for a great setting.

Begin near the center of the North Face, at the foot of the base of the rock, on the left side of a large rectangular block.

Pitch 1: Up cracks on the left side of the block to a very large flat ledge (5.8).

Pitch 2: Move up and left to a discontinuous seam/crack (good small tcus and wires) which is followed up past 2 bolts. Move up and right to a large flake, exiting this higher up to reach a 3rd bolt. Head right to eventually gain a narrow ledge system -- belay at the ledge's right end (11b).

Pitch 3: Up a finger crack to its end and head left and up to the summit (5.7+).

Location

95 foot rap off the back of the formation. Head around the west side of the rock to return to the base.

Protection

Bring a good variety of: thin brass, some stoppers, and thin cams to 2 inches.


Routes in The Dunce Cap