- Edit (TBD)
Description
This route stands among the best in the entire Park. Bold, but adequately protected, the signature second pitch offers continuous climbing in a stellar position. The remote and beautiful locale and the surprisingly large north face make for a great setting.
Begin near the center of the North Face, at the foot of the base of the rock, on the left side of a large rectangular block.
Pitch 1: Up cracks on the left side of the block to a very large flat ledge (5.8).
Pitch 2: Move up and left to a discontinuous seam/crack (good small tcus and wires) which is followed up past 2 bolts. Move up and right to a large flake, exiting this higher up to reach a 3rd bolt. Head right to eventually gain a narrow ledge system -- belay at the ledge's right end (11b).
Pitch 3: Up a finger crack to its end and head left and up to the summit (5.7+).
Location
95 foot rap off the back of the formation. Head around the west side of the rock to return to the base.
Protection
Bring a good variety of: thin brass, some stoppers, and thin cams to 2 inches.
Routes in The Dunce Cap
- 2Spirited Away5.11bTrad