- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is a quality route with good climbing and really good rock. It was put up over the past year and 1/2.
It’s worth noting that the best way to climb p1 is by warming up on Blobular 5.10 and then hanging the draws on p1 of Attritus.
P1.5.12. 120’ Starts just right of of Blobular on Guide’s Wall. Climb blocky terrain past a pin and tackle the slab past 2 bolts (Crux). Continue into Blobular for upper 1/2.
P2. 100’ 4th class. From the anchor climb straight right and onto the loose ledge. Down climb the ledge to the very end below a big R facing corner. Build anchor here. .75 and 1. This traverse/ downclimb detracts a bit from the line but I promise the pitches above are worth it!
P3. 5.11-. 110’ Don’t climb the R facing corner but instead step down and climb up and right past 2 pins and towards the corner. Climb out right of the corner before regaining it. Climb the stellar corner past a pin and a fixed nut. Pin and bolt anchor on nice ledge.
P4. 5.11. 120’ Climb up from the belay through some steep blocky rock to a crux at a bolt. Continue past a pin and continue through a right trending flake that terminates on some thin moves past a bolt. Bolt and pin anchor on a nice ledge.
P5. 5.8 140’ climb a short bulge protected by one bolt and continue via 5.7 terrain to flake ledge.
Finish via one of the fine guides wall final pitches or walk around the corner and rap via the GW descent. 45M rope X2 is nice for the raps. Like many routes on GW many of these pitches can be traversed into from other variations especially pitch 4 from the S face variation that starts on the same big ledge.
Location
Starts just right of Blobular Oscilations on Guide’s wall. Approach and descent are same as Guide’s wall routes
Protection
Single 0-2
Doubles .4-1
5 regular draws, 5 Long.
Routes in Cascade Canyon
- 4Attritus5.12Alpine · Trad