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Peak Mountain 3

Breaking Up the Band

FA Nate Trapp
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Description

The approach to the base is covered in thorn bushes but you can just rap down from the landing about in the middle of the route. I'd recommend the belayer sit at the midway landing looking down at the start.10 degree overhanging wall which makes this climb surprisingly pumpy. Start with hands and heel hook on small shelf near head level. Good holds make for fun climbing on the bottom section while your back is towards the opposite wall. At the half-way point, the crux begins. Rest jugs turn into pocket crimps, sandy slopers, and big reaches. Slopey top-out.Avoid using the wall to your back and stay all on the south face for full grade.

Location

In the northeast corner of the Donald. Use standard approach trail to summit to set up top rope.Far left corner of bouldering cove.

Protection

TR. 2x 30ft tubular webbing, 2x 120 cm slings. Solid cracks for placing cams .4-4 (BD c4 sizes).