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Peak Mountain 3

Make John Do It

FA C. Busch and J. Johnson, early 2000s
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

I am not sure what to say for the rating, since I have not climbed this one. It was done as two pitches originally, but it looks as if it could be done in one long pitch The crack looks wide, blocky, and very protectable. If done in two pitches, you will need a gear belay for the first pitch. This probably never had a second ascent, and most likely it is dirty. Treat it as an adventure! I am not trying to sandbag the route, and it may be easier that the given grade. I will talk to the FA and see what they remember and update.

Location

This is 10-20 feet to the right of

Caroline's Crack

, up a right-facing corner of sorts.

Protection

The crack looks mostly wide but fairly variable. Bring a rack as if it was a FA minus the bolt kit. Metolius rappel anchors are about forty feet short of the top of the cliff left of the crack. Do one double rope rappel.