Lowe Variation

A flaring hand to offhand crack that is way flakey. This crack is rather fun, has lots of great moves but felt way insecure, and Oh yes...was not a 5.8. The book calls it a 5.8, I will go with 5.10a. Very steep and very flaring with nary a rest. I had a hard time picking out a crux as most of the climb was cruxy. This climb rated 2 stars due to the length (great), rock quality (not so great, but would be better if more people climbed it), tree in the middle of the route (I climbed through it, also not so good), and consistency of the grade (great). Get on this route. It could use a better anchor system.

First crack west of the Great Cleft. This climbs throught the rightmost crack stepping left when this dies passing over, through, or around a pine tree, and continuing to the ledge with a slung chockstone.

A range of cams, as the flaring nature isn't kind to nuts. Medium to large nuts would work well in some situations. By the time I got to the top, my largest cam I had left was a yellow Metolius. I used everything from #4 Camalot down. Slings in case the ones at the belay station ar no good.