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Peak Mountain 3

Matinee

FA: Yvon Chouinard & Jim Andress - 1961FFA: Jim McCarthy & John Hudson - 1963
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Two short pitches that are very different in character.

From the Uberfall, walk about 2 minutes down the carriage road, until you see a huge left-facing corner and roof. This is the route. It's also 30-40 feet right of Betty.

P1 (5.10, 50'): At any other area the grade of 10d would be just fine. A slightly atypical Gunks climb: delicate underclinging. Climb up a short left-facing corner to the obvious, huge low roof, and undercling left. Continue past the end of the roof and step over to a pillar to belay.

P2 (5.10d, 75'): Step back right from the pillar, and head up a very steep, powerful corner system using jugs and jams. Continue up and left to belay at a tree.

Descent: walk off via Radcliffe, or the Uberfall Descent.

Protection

Standard Rack.