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Peak Mountain 3

Graduate School

FA Bill Robins, Thomas Koch 1986
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Make a few easy but unprotected face moves off the belay ledge until good pro is reached at about 15 feet. Mantel a fun mini "roof" and head up and right following a crack feature to the first bolt. Continue up and right through a cool wavy section with sparse pro, gaining a flared handcrack above. When the crack disappears, slab up and right past 2 more bolts and get established in another flaring crack that is a bit steeper than the first.

The original finish seemed to go up and right above the final crack to a large tree. I found kitty litter and no protection that way so I went left instead, clipping a piton in a dihedral and moving straight left to a pine tree belay. Bolts on the route look like quarter inchers with SMC hangers. Walk off or rap with 2 ropes.

Location

On the west face of Memorial Day Buttress. Starts right of High School Drop Out off the same belay ledge.

Protection

Standard rack up to #4, lots of runners