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Peak Mountain 3

Optic Nerve

FA Douglas Snively and Bernard Gillett
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UPDATED 

Description

Optic Nerve is a fun but seldom-climbed route that goes right up the lens part of Lens Rock. Its X rating comes from the fact that the only pro is near the very bottom, and after that it's nothing but friction, crystals, and crimpers. A bolted anchor near the top makes it accessible to us top-roping mortals. However you choose to do it, start from an obvious tree about halfway between The Frame's offwidth and the obviously bolted Ellipse, and head up a flake which soon gives way to the blank face that continues all the way to the top.

Location

We accessed it from the top after doing

Tennis Shoe Tango

, but if you're heading straight there from the bottom, reverse the descent route, which goes down (or up, depending) the east side over slabs and through gullies.

Protection

Perhaps a crash pad would be more useful than a rack. But seriously, if you plan on soloing...uh, I mean leading, a standard rack is way more than you'll ever need. For a toprope, bring a couple long runners and belay from the top.