- Edit (TBD)
Description
This route follows a corner/flake system up the east face of the Mescalito. Start at two parallel cracks 75' south of a huge left facing corner.
P1 Follow either crack over a low bulge, via good face holds, up into a chimney. Layback and stem up the chimney, using the crack in the right corner, to a ledge with bushes(optional belay). Hand traverse left into the corner and build a belay. For the left-corner anchor, a couple very small micro-cams might help as well as climbing up a move or two to place a reassuringly larger piece. 180' 5.7
P2 Upward via flakes and the large right facing corner. Continue up crack on right. Finally, move right under the roof and up into the chimney/cave. Belay from the cave.
P3 From the cave go up the low-angle right-facing corner. Exit left after a white bulge, via cracks and plates, eventually reaching Cat in the Hat.
Either rappel Cat in the Hat or continue upward to the summit.
Protection
A standard rack plus a #4 and 4.5 would be helpful.
Routes in East Face
- 9C11H17NO35.8Trad