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Peak Mountain 3

El Dorado

FA Tom Higgins and Richard Coats, 1963
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

An all gear route with a very interesting second pitch. Starts same as El Monte but head left around the bush and through short crack (topo in the book is a bit off), through some overlaps. Step left around the roof then trend right on lay-backs. With a 70m I get to a perfect belay ledge. The next pitch trended right again and headed for a small bush that is a belay point for El Grandote. There's some slings on the bush and you literally sit in it to belay. With a 70m you can keep moving right and aim for a small over hang of 6in for a semi-hanging belay. Gear is super tricky to get there. Final pitch goes left to start then back right laybacking a right angling roof to finish on easy terrain.

Location

Starts directly above big tree left of El Monte and right of huge roof.

Protection

Small stuff helps.