We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Buttered Muffin

FA unknown
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Direct finish variation to Meadow Muffin.

After the 1st crux section through the 5th bolt, and after easier climbing to the giant flake...at this point, Meadow Muffin (12a) goes to the right to the Electric Ladyland crack to finish with "fingerlocks leftward to the top." Buttered Muffin instead goes straight up through another crux from the giant flake on a separate set of bolts. There is no finishing anchors at the direct finish of Buttered Muffin so top out and use the anchors on one of the adjacent routes or walk off.

This route is an eliminate on the upper crux- it would be easy to bypass the upper crux by moving left to grab a big left-facing sidepull- I assume this is off limits, in order to warrant the step up in grade from Meadow Muffin. Correct me if I'm wrong.

Location

The bolt line that goes directly up the middle of Bolt Slab West Face. Once you reach the massive flake that you can stand on for a nice rest, go straight up avoiding the big left-facing sidepull feature out left.

Protection

Quickdraws