- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is absolutely a must do climb.
It is a steep intimidating line up beautiful rock, passing kneebars and other interesting rest spots. Use the rests, you will need them. It has been said that this route is reminiscent of the Red River Gorge and I fully agree. The first 10 feet is low angle and more moderate. When you reach the steep stuff, move left and over the first bulge finding a few choices of kneebars. After a good rest you move up in to the crux involving a few fairly bad holds and a high, right foot to a huge undercling. This where it gets pumpy for me. Take an awkward rest in a corner and hang on through the last few steep moves and mantel to the left to finish.
Location
The start is right up the hill in front of the crooked birch tree just as you scramble on to the ledge on the left side of the cliff.
Protection
7 bolts to chains. New SS glue-ins as of May 2015
Routes in The Prudential
- 7Stoned Temple Pilot5.12aSport