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Peak Mountain 3

Central East Face

FA unknown
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This face/route doesn't seem to be documented in any of the guidebooks. It climbs the middle of the central face of the Forgotten Flatiron on a bucket covered face. You can climb almost anywhere you want. It is a 4th Class/easy 5th Class solo dream. The only disappointment was that it wasn't longer. At the top, it goes up a small finger of rock formed by a gully on either side. One can easily walk off from the top or bail into either of the gullies. I then returned to the bottom via the gully between The Forgotten Flatiron and the Fatiron. I found the "crux" to be the first 5-10 feet off the ground where a few friction moves were required before the massive buckets begin.

Location

Walk north along the east face passing the section that has the highest summit on formation. The bucket covered face can't be missed, and the start is document in Mark Roth's photo. There is smoother red face to the north (right) of this face. The top of the route forms a small finger that sits between the tall south summit and the shorter north summit.

I started from these GPS coordinates: 39.95183 N, -105.28537 W.

Protection

There isn't much in the way of cracks for gear, but there are loads of pockets, buckets, and elephant ears. Walk off the top.


Routes in Forgotten Flatiron aka Icarus


  1. 2
    Central East Face
    Easy 5th
    Trad