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Peak Mountain 3

Unnamed Crack

FA unknown
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Just to the right of the three main routes at 5.8 Sanctuary is Pointless Wonder, and "Unnamed 5.6" is just right of it.

This is not a route for a new trad leader, as it is on sketchy limestone. It's not really a route for anyone except a trad climber desperate to place gear in an area swarming with bolts. The rock is weak, some of the placements are questionable, and the top-out and belay are a mess. But for some reason, I've done this route twice now, lol. And it provides an opportunity to use a coveted Black Totem if you have one!

The finish is brushy and dirty, and then you have to fight through brush to set up a belay off trees. Lots of fun. Fortunately, you can lower your second and then crash through a little more brush to reach a trail that takes you back down.

Although my two ascents in the spring of 2018 are the only two lead ascents of which I know, I'm not claiming an FA on this because someone had probably at least free soloed it already. But if I ever find out I did do the FA, then I might name it "Really Pointless Wonder."

My 5.6 rating is an estimate; I can see reasonable people calling it either 5.5 or 5.7.

Location

Park at the 360 Loop access and hike down to Seismic Wall. Turn right and hike about 5 minutes until you see a bolted route that is the sole bolted route at 5.8 Sanctuary. Then drift a little right, using the picture here, to find the route.

Protection

Small and medium cams, stoppers, cord for tree anchors.