We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Weather Window Waltz (The Guardian NE Face)

FA (Possible First Ascent?) Wesley Ashwood, Nic Harnish, Kealsea Sheely, August 2011
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a wonderful, sustained route with mostly quality rock on the NE Face of The Guardian in the Weminuche Wilderness. It has 8 pitches of corners and cracks with occasional broken sections and about 500-600 feet of simul-climbing on the final ridge section.

Descend off the South aspect of the mountain. Depending on where you camp, this can make for a long day (for us it was a 19 hour round trip camp-to-camp).

Location

This is on the eastern-most mountain in the East Grenadiers. Read the area page for The Guardian for details on how to get there.

Protection

There is no fixed gear on this mostly well-protected route. Some belays are marginal. Bring a double set of cams from 0.5 to 3.5 and a set of nuts and an extra set of TCUs.