- Edit (TBD)
Description
Pitch 1: Locate the first bolt about 20' up from the base of the chimney/gully. Climb up past 9 bolts to a 3 bolt anchor, clip the anchor and climb up through a steeper juggy crack. Follow the weakness to the top and a 2 bolt anchor. This is a pretty fun line, with the crux getting to the first bolt, and mostly cruiser climbing after it. Good candidate for someones first trad lead.
Descent: Rappel the route with one rope.
Location
This is located on the E face of the
Talk Buttress
. Best approach is from the base of the
The Dead Snag
, and a short hike up the next gully to the west until it ends in a chimney/gully. It also can be approached from the
Talk Buttress
proper with a downclimb of the chimney below the start of
Look Who's Talking
.
Protection
A bunch of slings/QDs, and a small rack of nuts and cams to 2".