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Peak Mountain 3

Biological Clock

FA Todd Gordon, Dave Evans, Kate Duke, Darrel Hensel, and Alan Bartlett - May 1986
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Biological Clock lies on the far right (west) end of DQ on a separate, short wall. Look for the single bolt on the upper face.

A fairly unusual route, as most of the protection is by tying off rock "plates". Start up nice 10' hand crack. This is where the fun begins. Move up and left on incut plates (some a bit hollow sounding). One solid bolt (replaced 2/02) protects the crux (5.9+) exiting moves. Getting to that bolt is a little spicey. Belay in crack and descend by walking NW to chimney/slot that will take you back to your pack.

Protection

Not much! A hand-size cam for the initial crack, and a couple of shoulder-length slings to tie off rock "plates". One solid bolt on the upper face protects crux moves. A stopper or two can be slotted between plates below the bolt. Bring a couple of cams for the belay.