Slipping Into Darkness

The cleanest line on the SW buttress of the Shield, with a couple of very memorable pitches around a giant roof.

Note: Sandia Rock gives this route an 'R', but its topo only shows an 'R' for 5.8 pitches shared with Procrastination; the 5.10 leads protect adequately if on small pro.

Pitch 1: Start as for Procrastination with a 5.8 boulder problem behind the aspen trees and the only giant boulder. Traverse left and angle up a 5.4 ramp to a 2-bolt belay. Other options on this start exist also. (5.8)

Pitch 2: Move left 10' and pull through a steep section. Move left to the arete and around the corner, or continue up the blocky prow and move left later on.  [If you go too high before traversing left, you'll get some 5.9/10- R traversing.] A 2-bolt belay is reached below the clean open book at about 180'. (5.8) [According to the Hill guide, a 5.10 direct start could be used to reach the same point, probably in 2 pitches also.  I guess some people are traversing hard left just after the boulder problem start on Procrastination too. I've done this pitch twice and still haven't nailed it; expect some route-finding.]

Pitch 3: Follow 5.9 corner with stemming/chimney moves (some bushes) to below the roof.  Can set a hanging belay here or link into the next pitch (be aware to manage rope drag if combining these, it's about 190' if linked).

Pitch 4: Traverse right just below the impressive roof, and pull around the corner. Fun!!! Move up 10', swing left on a big hold and belay on the ledge above. [There used to be an old bolt at a stance shortly after you turn the corner, but neither my partner nor I saw it 9/2019] You can combine this with the previous pitch or the next pitch, but watch out for rope drag if linking pitches. (5.10c)

Pitch 5: Stem & lieback up the thin corner (RPs/thin gear), then traverse right along a ledge to the "bivi ledge" atop Chicken Chop Suey or Procrastination. Thin and techy stemming, a fairly heady lead but protects adequately with good small gear. (5.10c) [In Hills' book, it suggests the original route moves left near the top of this pitch, and follows an independent 6th pitch of mid 5th class, joining Procrastination at the top of that pitch rather than at the bivi ledge.]

Pitches 6-11: Finish as for Procrastination, with a few options to choose from based on motivation and ability. The Odyssey is recommended and is a reasonable choice for those able to send the 5.10 on Slipping Into Darkness.

This climb seeks out the open book on the prow left of the big offwidth crack (Chicken Chop Suey dihedral), and begins as for Procrastination and CCS.

Start behind the boulder in the aspen grove at the base of the talus slope. A water streak marks the beginning.

Cams: 2 ea. from smallest TCUs to 1.5" (red camalot); 1 hand size cam; nuts including RPs; ball-nuts optional.