Cymbeline

This is an independent start that links several of

Cow-a-bunga's

harder variations. It shares no climbing with any other established route, but the top third has been climbed before.

Cymbeline is a dramatic climb in five acts: Make bouldery moves off the ground up and right aiming for a small ledge (potentially PG-13). From the ledge, climb the right side splitter of a tornado-shaped feature, reaching another small stance. Step right and climb a clean, fingers-to-hands splitter. Move right and join

Cow-a-bunga's

5.9 variation: double finger cracks. This ends at a pair of bolts- where a TR is possible with a 60m rope. I continued up from here, climbing the clean fist/OW corner to the top of the buttress.

Although ledgy and not sustained, the climbing on this route was fun and varied. This route is comparable to

The Lord of Wisdom

in difficulty, maybe a letter grade harder but less sustained.

FWIW, this route was done ground-up and solo using a Gri-gri.

The new approach trail brings you directly to the start of this climb. It begins 10 feet left of the only tree at the base of the cliff, and 5 feet right of "

Another Unnamed Route

."

Singles from 00 TCU to a #3 Camalot. A #9 DMM offset protects the upper crux.