- Edit (TBD)
Description
Left of Ed's world about 60 feet, you'll find a marvelous big hands to fists to offwidth crack in a right facing dihedral. In the guidebook it's listed as Blue Square (5.10), so that's what I'm posting it here as. Start between a boulder and the wall up on a pedestal and climb teacups and fists up bomber stone till you get to knees, then wings and eventually a squeezy tunnel where you can breathe the finest dust the desert has to offer. Grovel up through and enjoy the view! Well protected and a blast from bottom to top. Would be 4 stars if the anchors were placed better and the ending grovel wasn't so dirty.
Location
The best-looking splitter between Ed's world and bunny slope. Right facing dihedral.
Protection
Needs a 70m to lower. Highly recommend taking around 30 feet of cord to extend the anchor to keep your rope a bit cleaner. Our rack was (2)2s, (6)3s, (1)4, 5, and a 6 will make the route as comfortable as you can make it. Don't believe the guidebook recs for a 60m rope and lots of 4s and 5s. Metolius pieces between bd 3 and 4 are great here too.
Routes in Critic's Choice
- 14Blue Square5.10Trad